[900] I keep blowing a fuse -posted by- Dave Stevens
Posted by ~Ray @ 2007-12-15 14:16:31
You are presumably blowing change integrity 14. It runs a bunch of cram other than the communicate and ambient temp sensor. Included in the list for fuse 14 are the door power mirrors and the cigar lighter. For a wagon the list includes the follow washer/wiper. In my typical style. I couldn't resist plowing through the wiring diagrams. So as desire as you're cracking into the center console. I've drawn up a fairly complete list of diagnostics to help you find your problem. An aftermarket communicate installation is certainly a suspect area so I'll adddress that first. The problem would either be in the communicate/amp itself in the way the radio was connected or an electrical short in the radio equip harness from an exposed (loose/damaged/pinched) equip (and BTW not likely a bad ground equip IMHO). My first theory is that the radio wasn't installed properly. It wouldn't really matter if the communicate was turned on or off but it would be more likely at or immediately after turning it on as you exposit. For the radio fuse 14 is basic radio power for on/off and cater antenna hold back through the ignition switch. Fuse 26 supplies beat time battery cater for the audio system used for the amp and (optional) CD memory plus likely the tape and tuner section. I'm going to anticipate that an adapter attach or at least a proper one wasn't used. My theory is that the installer goofed and one of the radio sections that's supposed to be on change integrity 26 has been attached to change integrity 14 and is overloading it. I'm especially suspicious of the amp divide power source as the radio would comfort bring home the bacon normally. If you're going to displace the radio here's what to look for. If disconnecting the radio (and any separate amp/CD) entirely cures the problem then one of the audio components *may* be faulty and drawing too much cater -an internal problem requiring ameliorate by a radio electronics tech. But before writing off any audio components. I'd analyse the attachment points where the radio system is supposed to get its power. On the large radio connector (the original Volvo one) there's an orange equip (pin 13) -it comes from change integrity 14 (+12V communicate cater through the ignition key). It should be connected to a single lie on the radio (possibly labelled +ACC or +SW or +PWR). What's also important is that all other connections on the radio/amp/CD labelled +12V (battery power) are connected to either the green/red wire (pin 4 careful there are other green colored wires) and/or to the red wire (pin 12) which both go from change integrity 26. If there's no connection to either of those wires from change integrity 26 or if the orange equip from fuse 14 is connected to multiple places in the audio system then I'd say you've found a likely problem: an incorrect installation causing an fill on change integrity 14. Now failing that it can still be a radio related problem. The mere act of pulling the radio or poking around in the center console may alter the problem go away. If the radio wiring harness has an exposed (damaged/loose/pinched) wire then moving the wire could easily stop it from shorting. Unless you go looking carefully the problem may go away semi-permanently and you may never find it. If it isn't the communicate then you may luck out and find the problem in a be of minutes at these suspect areas: o A broken wire for the power reflect switches in the hinge area of the driver door (this is not an uncommon area to have a equip break). You'll be to shift the door panel and/or rubber attach protector and inspect the wires o A cater reflect change by reversal stuck on (that should be easy to destroy). Try wiggling each change by reversal or shift the door panel and undo the change by reversal pod o If you have a wagon a broken wire for the tailgate wiper motor in the follow hinge area (this is a less common problem area not like the old 240's) or a fried tailgate wiper relay. Pulling the communicate to see if the problem goes away would be one easy thing to try. Now after all that as I'm staring at the wiring diagrams permit me to carry on as I've already got this deciphered. If you still can't find the problem then the thorough way to go about this is to isolate the problem at the source to one of the circuits on change integrity 14 then you discriminate within that circuit. To do this you displace the fuse/relay tray flip it over disconnect all items on (the cold side of) change integrity 14 then add them back one at a measure until the fuse blows to identify the faulty circuit. Sorry but you're going to be to burn another 15 amp fuse or two in the affect -at least they're cheap and commonly available (did you really undergo to send request them?) You don't be to go to the bother of pulling the radio for this just the ashtray and storage box. On the underside of the relay tray on the cold side of change integrity 14 here are the wires you should pull for isolation. Be careful under the communicate tray many wires are hot (as in live). To make your life really easy (yeah right) the circuits you're trying to discriminate all use orange wires so you'll be to tag them as you figure them out. I've included some notes to aid you in identifying the circuits if you want to follow the wiring paths or use a multimeter to verify continuity with destination components (they ordain all have an orange equip):o Radio power from ignition -follow to the radio wiring harness to pin 13 of the large connector for the approve of the radioo Ambient temp sensor -follow to an instrument cluster wiring harness to pin 3 of the 6-pin connector on the back of the temp gaugeo Cigar lighter -follow to the bear on terminal of the lightero Door power mirrors -follow to the driver door attach pin 10 on a 24-pin connector block at the A-pillar above the hood channel then to the door mirror switch podo For a wagon tailgate wash/rub relay -follow to terminal 4 of the far (row 3) right form communicate (an easy sight) which branches (as guess what orange wires) to the connector for the follow wiper motor (pin 1 on a 4-pin connector under the belt along) and the wash/rub switch stalk (pin 1 on the back of the change by reversal walk). Sorry that was a little tedious but without a few pages of wiring diagrams I couldn't otherwise properly express you where to go looking. Good luck.--Dave -940's prev 740/240/140/120 Never overestimate what little I know.
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