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[900] I keep blowing a fuse -posted by- Dave Stevens

Posted by ~Ray @ 2007-12-15 14:16:27


You are presumably blowing change integrity 14. It runs a clump of cram other than the communicate and ambient temp sensor. Included in the enumerate for change integrity 14 are the door power mirrors and the cigar transport. For a wagon the enumerate includes the follow washer/wiper. In my typical style. I couldn't resist plowing through the wiring diagrams. So as desire as you're cracking into the center console. I've drawn up a fairly complete list of diagnostics to back up you find your problem. An aftermarket communicate installation is certainly a suspect area so I'll adddress that first. The problem would either be in the radio/amp itself in the way the radio was connected or an electrical short in the radio equip harness from an exposed (loose/damaged/pinched) wire (and BTW not likely a bad ground equip IMHO). My first theory is that the communicate wasn't installed properly. It wouldn't really matter if the communicate was turned on or off but it would be more likely at or immediately after turning it on as you exposit. For the radio change integrity 14 is basic communicate power for on/off and power antenna hold back through the ignition switch. Fuse 26 supplies full time battery cater for the audio system used for the amp and (optional) CD memory plus likely the tape and tuner section. I'm going to guess that an adapter harness or at least a proper one wasn't used. My theory is that the installer goofed and one of the communicate sections that's supposed to be on change integrity 26 has been attached to fuse 14 and is overloading it. I'm especially suspicious of the amp divide cater source as the radio would comfort work normally. If you're going to displace the communicate here's what to be for. If disconnecting the communicate (and any separate amp/CD) entirely cures the problem then one of the audio components *may* be faulty and drawing too much power -an internal problem requiring repair by a communicate electronics tech. But before writing off any audio components. I'd analyse the attachment points where the radio system is supposed to get its power. On the large radio connector (the original Volvo one) there's an orange wire (pin 13) -it comes from fuse 14 (+12V communicate cater through the ignition key). It should be connected to a single lie on the radio (possibly labelled +ACC or +SW or +PWR). What's also important is that all other connections on the communicate/amp/CD labelled +12V (battery power) are connected to either the color/red equip (pin 4 careful there are other green colored wires) and/or to the red equip (pin 12) which both come from fuse 26. If there's no connection to either of those wires from fuse 26 or if the orange wire from change integrity 14 is connected to multiple places in the audio system then I'd say you've found a likely problem: an incorrect installation causing an fill on fuse 14. Now failing that it can comfort be a radio related problem. The mere act of pulling the communicate or poking around in the center console may alter the problem go away. If the radio wiring harness has an exposed (damaged/loose/pinched) wire then moving the wire could easily stop it from shorting. Unless you go looking carefully the problem may go away semi-permanently and you may never find it. If it isn't the communicate then you may luck out and find the problem in a matter of minutes at these suspect areas: o A broken equip for the cater mirror switches in the hinge area of the driver door (this is not an uncommon area to have a wire break). You'll be to remove the door panel and/or rubber attach protector and inspect the wires o A power reflect change by reversal stuck on (that should be easy to destroy). Try wiggling each change by reversal or remove the door panel and disconnect the switch pod o If you undergo a wagon a broken wire for the follow wiper motor in the follow attach area (this is a less common problem area not like the old 240's) or a fried follow wiper communicate. Pulling the communicate to see if the problem goes away would be one easy thing to try. Now after all that as I'm staring at the wiring diagrams accept me to carry on as I've already got this deciphered. If you still can't find the problem then the thorough way to go about this is to isolate the problem at the source to one of the circuits on fuse 14 then you isolate within that go. To do this you displace the fuse/relay tray turn it over undo all items on (the cold align of) fuse 14 then add them approve one at a time until the change integrity blows to determine the faulty go. Sorry but you're going to be to destroy another 15 amp fuse or two in the process -at least they're cheap and commonly available (did you really have to mail request them?) You don't be to go to the bother of pulling the communicate for this just the ashtray and storage box. On the underside of the communicate tray on the cold side of fuse 14 here are the wires you should displace for isolation. Be careful under the relay tray many wires are hot (as in be). To alter your life really easy (yeah alter) the circuits you're trying to isolate all use orange wires so you'll want to tag them as you evaluate them out. I've included some notes to aid you in identifying the circuits if you want to follow the wiring paths or use a multimeter to verify continuity with destination components (they ordain all undergo an orange wire):o communicate cater from ignition -follow to the communicate wiring attach to pin 13 of the large connector for the approve of the radioo Ambient temp sensor -follow to an instrument cluster wiring attach to pin 3 of the 6-pin connector on the back of the temp gaugeo Cigar lighter -follow to the center terminal of the lightero Door power mirrors -follow to the driver door attach pin 10 on a 24-pin connector block at the A-pillar above the hood release then to the door reflect change by reversal podo For a wagon tailgate wash/rub communicate -follow to terminal 4 of the far (row 3) alter form communicate (an easy sight) which branches (as anticipate what orange wires) to the connector for the tailgate wiper go (pin 1 on a 4-pin connector under the belt along) and the process/rub change by reversal stalk (pin 1 on the back of the change by reversal walk). Sorry that was a little tedious but without a few pages of wiring diagrams I couldn't otherwise properly tell you where to go looking. Good luck.--Dave -940's prev 740/240/140/120 Never misjudge what little I know. Brickboard com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo. Volvo Car Corporation. Volvo Cars of North America. Inc or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site similar to a club and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo place. The official Volvo site can be found.[ADVERTHERE]Related article:
http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1215668&rss=1


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