[900] I keep blowing a fuse -posted by- Dave Stevens
Posted by ~Ray @ 2007-12-15 14:16:27
You are presumably blowing fuse 14. It runs a clump of stuff other than the radio and ambient temp sensor. Included in the enumerate for fuse 14 are the door cater mirrors and the cigar lighter. For a wagon the list includes the tailgate washer/wiper. In my typical style. I couldn't elude plowing through the wiring diagrams. So as long as you're cracking into the center console. I've drawn up a fairly complete list of diagnostics to back up you find your problem. An aftermarket radio installation is certainly a guess area so I'll adddress that first. The problem would either be in the radio/amp itself in the way the radio was connected or an electrical bunco in the radio equip harness from an exposed (loose/damaged/pinched) wire (and BTW not likely a bad fasten equip IMHO). My first theory is that the communicate wasn't installed properly. It wouldn't really matter if the radio was turned on or off but it would be more likely at or immediately after turning it on as you describe. For the radio change integrity 14 is basic communicate cater for on/off and power antenna control through the ignition change by reversal. change integrity 26 supplies beat time battery cater for the audio system used for the amp and (optional) CD memory plus likely the tape and tuner divide. I'm going to guess that an adapter harness or at least a proper one wasn't used. My theory is that the installer goofed and one of the radio sections that's supposed to be on fuse 26 has been attached to fuse 14 and is overloading it. I'm especially suspicious of the amp divide cater obtain as the radio would still work normally. If you're going to pull the radio here's what to look for. If disconnecting the radio (and any separate amp/CD) entirely cures the problem then one of the audio components *may* be faulty and drawing too much power -an internal problem requiring repair by a communicate electronics tech. But before writing off any audio components. I'd analyse the attachment points where the communicate system is supposed to get its power. On the large radio connector (the original Volvo one) there's an orange equip (pin 13) -it comes from change integrity 14 (+12V communicate cater through the ignition key). It should be connected to a single line on the communicate (possibly labelled +ACC or +SW or +PWR). What's also important is that all other connections on the communicate/amp/CD labelled +12V (battery cater) are connected to either the green/red wire (pin 4 careful there are other green colored wires) and/or to the red wire (pin 12) which both go from fuse 26. If there's no connection to either of those wires from fuse 26 or if the orange wire from change integrity 14 is connected to multiple places in the audio system then I'd say you've found a likely problem: an incorrect installation causing an fill on fuse 14. Now failing that it can comfort be a communicate related problem. The mere act of pulling the communicate or poking around in the center console may alter the problem go away. If the communicate wiring harness has an exposed (damaged/let go/pinched) wire then moving the wire could easily stop it from shorting. Unless you go looking carefully the problem may go away semi-permanently and you may never find it. If it isn't the communicate then you may luck out and sight the problem in a be of minutes at these suspect areas: o A broken equip for the power reflect switches in the hinge area of the driver door (this is not an uncommon area to undergo a wire break). You'll be to remove the door panel and/or coat attach protector and inspect the wires o A power reflect switch stuck on (that should be easy to eliminate). Try wiggling each switch or shift the door panel and undo the change by reversal pod o If you have a wagon a broken equip for the follow wiper go in the tailgate attach area (this is a less common problem area not like the old 240's) or a fried tailgate wiper relay. Pulling the relay to see if the problem goes away would be one easy thing to try. Now after all that as I'm staring at the wiring diagrams permit me to displace on as I've already got this deciphered. If you still can't find the problem then the thorough way to go about this is to isolate the problem at the source to one of the circuits on fuse 14 then you isolate within that go. To do this you displace the change integrity/relay tray turn it over disconnect all items on (the cold align of) change integrity 14 then add them back one at a time until the fuse blows to identify the faulty circuit. Sorry but you're going to need to destroy another 15 amp fuse or two in the process -at least they're cheap and commonly available (did you really undergo to mail request them?) You don't need to go to the reach of pulling the radio for this just the ashtray and storage box. On the underside of the communicate tray on the cold align of change integrity 14 here are the wires you should displace for isolation. Be careful under the relay tray many wires are hot (as in live). To make your life really easy (yeah alter) the circuits you're trying to isolate all use orange wires so you'll want to tag them as you figure them out. I've included some notes to aid you in identifying the circuits if you be to follow the wiring paths or use a multimeter to verify continuity with destination components (they ordain all undergo an orange wire):o communicate power from ignition -follow to the radio wiring harness to pin 13 of the large connector for the approve of the radioo Ambient temp sensor -follow to an instrument cluster wiring harness to pin 3 of the 6-pin connector on the back of the temp gaugeo Cigar lighter -follow to the bear on terminal of the lightero Door power mirrors -follow to the driver door harness pin 10 on a 24-pin connector block at the A-pillar above the hood release then to the door mirror switch podo For a wagon tailgate process/rub relay -follow to terminal 4 of the far (row 3) right square relay (an easy sight) which branches (as guess what orange wires) to the connector for the tailgate wiper motor (pin 1 on a 4-pin connector under the dash) and the wash/wipe change by reversal stalk (pin 1 on the approve of the switch stalk). Sorry that was a little tedious but without a few pages of wiring diagrams I couldn't otherwise properly tell you where to go looking. Good luck.--Dave -940's prev 740/240/140/120 Never overestimate what little I know.
Brickboard com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo. Volvo Car Corporation. Volvo Cars of North America. Inc or cover Motor Company. Brickboard com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site similar to a unify and does not intend to be as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found.[ADVERTHERE]Related article:
http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1215668&rss=1
0 Comments:
No comments have been posted yet!
|
